Tree Communication

I have been receiving a lot of feedback about tree removal and I wanted to address a broad overview and a few specifics.  Trees are obviously a very important asset to the club and we want to ensure that we are doing everything we can to protect them and ensure great health.  A major step taken to maintain our trees was to hire  Barry Coate and Associates to provide a detailed audit of our trees.  The little silver tags on every tree are proof of Barry's examination of 1,600 trees that inhabit our property.  We have a manual corresponding to each tag that gives an overview of the trees health, current disease and recommendation to keep or remove along with a recommendation to replace.  This is one piece of  information we use for selection of removal.  Here are some photos of what the manual contains.

Tree Manual

Each individual tree shown here.  The "R" at the far right indicates removal.

Photos showing infected areas

1 More Photo

About 3 years ago the Golf and Greens Committee started a sub-group the "Views Committee" to select specific trees for removal to enhance our views along with improving playability.  We would put together a priority list for each year due to the fact our tree budget allows for 40K on an annual basis. Here are a few notes taken our fist meeting in 2009.  We have met every year since and if anyone would like those notes I can get them to you.  This is another piece of info we use for removal.

(Revision 1)

November 2, 2009

Report from the “Improve our Views” subcommittee

Subcommittee Members:  Terry Eastham, John Pietrzac, Sue Rose, (Andrew Morgan)

On November 2, 2009, the Views Subcommittee spent three hours viewing the course with the objective of improving the views of and from our golf course.  Although the primary focus was on trimming and removing trees, several non-tree recommendations are included in the list below.

Since the annual tree-trimming program is already underway, the highest priority (and less controversial) recommendations will be implemented almost immediately; specifically the recommendations for the #1, #4, #7 and #13 holes.  Comments and further prioritization of the remaining list of recommendations can be considered as/if needed.

Andrew also took notes that hopefully agree with the following:

 Highest Priorities (for immediate implementation):

1)      1^st FAIRWAY --- Trim right side of pine tree #10 (on right side of fairway just off the T-box); also trim adjacent pine tree #9.

2)      4^TH FAIRWAY --- Remove pine trees #262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267 on right side of fairway near the green.  (Redwoods are already planted in this line to replace the removed trees).

3)      7^th T-BOX---Remove the two larger trees behind the T-box; clean out &/or trim the lower lying shrubbery.  Leave the oak tree behind the red-berry bush to the left of the T boxes.

4)      7^th GREEN---Remove tree #482 (leaning over D. Zepp’s House) & do not replace.  Replace the tree (trunk) #464 with a liquid amber.  Also remove scrub tree #474.

5)      13^th FAIRWAY---Remove the obviously dead tree on the left side o f the Fairway.  Consider trimming the tree(s) that is on the center-right side of the fairway (down in the hole) near the 1-tree T-box.

6)      13^th FAIRWAY---Remove the dead tree on the left side of the fairway at the turn.  Also remove the single pine tree on the left side of the fairway at the turn (that is in front of a nice oak tree).

Other Course Areas:

7)      9^TH FAIRWAY---Remove pine tree #596 on left side of fairway near the newly seeded area.  Re-locate an existing small redwood to the general area of #596.

8)      9^th FAIRWAY---Remove the “leaning” pine on the right side of fairway.

9)      5^th FAIRWAY---Remove pine tree #363 on the left.

10)   14^th FAIRWAY---Remove the small pine(?) tree on left side of fairway (near 1-tree Tbox).  Replace with a liquid amber(s).

11)   14^th GREEN AREA---Remove the ugly pine tree #370 to the left of the green.  

12)   14^th GREEN AREA---Remove pine trees #371, 372 and 373 and replace with liquid ambers or prune trees.

13)   18^th T-BOX---Trim/thin the oak tree to the left of the 2-tree T box.  Also trim/thin the oak to the left of the T box that is above the 17^th green.

14)   18^th FAIRWAY---Plant three redwood trees to the right side of the fairway (and right side of the cart path) to block the view of the house with the junker Volkswagon.  Every member & guest riding a cart has to look at this back yard today!

15)   12^th FAIRWAY---Consider topping the two very tall pine trees that are on the right (near the right side of the 15^th green).

16)   11^th T-BOX---Consider topping oaks on left???

17)   11^th T-BOX---Consider thinning/topping tall trees around the 16^th green to open up view(s)???

 Pro-shop and Driving Range areas:

18)   Remove the two birch trees in the planting bed (right side of pro-shop looking out).  Trim/thin/re-do the remaining shrubbery that is currently overgrown. 

19)   (Later) remove the large Juniper tree that is at the very end of the electric storage shed.

20)   Trim the large cypress located near the top of the parking area (driving range side).

21)   (Later) replace the single pine tree that is to the left and above the 9^th green (above the driving range) with several liquid amber or prune trees.

22)   Remove/trim two tall pines to the right side of the driving range.

23)   Lower the height of the hedge that backs the 9^th green by 1-2 feet so that a view down the 9^th fairway is possible.

24)   Lower the height of the hedge surrounding the 1^st T box so the pro shop can see who/when/if anyone is on the T.

Other:

25)   Remove the old and almost-dead tree trunk near the snack shop.  It will never recover to look good!

26)   18^th FAIRWAY “short-cut dirt path” ---Consider eliminating this path OR making it look like it is actually a featureJ.  A slightly curved path (compared to the current linear line) that enters the area more to the left than now and exits more to the right than now…with a low maintenance “mandina” planting along the lower side of the path (to hide the path) might work.  This feature can be seen from the club house!

27)   We discussed but did not address the proposal to widen the 2^nd T Box.

We have a beautiful course with beautiful views that can only get better!

(end)

Before I get into any specifics I wanted to touch on one more general theme and that's to promote the trees on our course that our native to our property.  We are trying to provide some continuity throughout the entire course.  Over the past fifty years a lot of trees were planted without much thought put into placement and species.  This is why today we have a lot of trees on the course that don't belong.  Our main focus of the property should be our heritage oaks and beautiful redwoods native to the area.  What's happening is a lot of these smaller "weeds" I call them are taking away from our signature specimens.  Below are a few examples of this.

Here is an example were the canary pine is taking away from our beautiful white oak, not to mention you can't even see the oak in the back ground.  I know some might say "well it provides safety for people on #8 T" were as I feel the oak is providing the safeguard.  This an example were you remove the canary and it will highlight our 100 year old oak.  Items like this will be discussed for the upcoming 2013 tree budget.

Here another example of a poor specimen ( look at the branching structure) at the back of number 15 not only blocking the view of our oak but inhibiting it's growth.

Specifics:

 I have had a lot of feedback concerning the willow at the turn on number 8.  I would like to start off by saying that 95% of the tree removals are approved by the golf and greens committee or the views sub-committee and this specific willow was no different. It was brought to the committee and approved for removal. The removal was based on the fact that this weeping willow was out of place and caused a lot issues for cleanup and turf coverage. Below is a photo of a valley oak that was planted to replace the willow.   I don't think you can argue that fact that  this tree fits the landscape.

Replacement for willow

 Here are a few photos of the removal to the right of number six to open up the view of our water feature along with making the T-shot a little more forgiving.

 Probably one of the most talked about (controversial) tree's since I have been here is the the monterey pine by the approach on number 10.  Like all monterey pines here they are nearing the end and this one is no exception.  I'm sure the removal of this tree will cause emotions both ways.

Will be removed!

 Moving forward I'm sure that we will continue to see a lot more monterey pines pass away.  We will continue to promote healthy vigorous trees that enhance our experience on the course and use our different committees to make those important decisions.  If you would like anymore information regarding trees at the club please don't hesitate to shoot me an e-mail and we could meet to discuss or tour the property.  amorgan@pahgcc.net

Aerial Pictures

Here are a few aerial photos that were taken last week.

Greens Update

The maintenance staff has been very busy over the last two months and I wanted to bring everyone up to speed on some items that we have finished and the direction we will be heading throughout winter.

We can start by saying that this years aerification to greens, T's and Fwy's was the best to date from a quality of core removal and seed germination.

Aerifying in Progress

 Aerification is one of the most important tasks on the maintenance of greens.  The normal aerification requirement is once in the spring and fall with large hollow tines, followed by a heavy topdressing. We also will incorporate a smaller hollow tine in the winter months, followed by a light topdressing.  Listed below are the main reasons that we aerify and why it's so important to our turf's health.

·         Alleviate Compaction, allows the soil to become loosened for better infiltration and air exchange

·         Eliminate and remove unwanted dead organic material or thatch

·         Incorporate new topdressing medium into top layer to provide for healthier and firmer greens

·         Allows greens to breathe so to speak because of the gas exchange that is going on with open holes, providing great oxygen that is vital for the plants survival

·         Improved water absorption because of the decrease in thatch

This Chart shows exactly why we aerify

 Before we started to aerify this fall I'm sure a lot of you noticed some areas of T's that where scalped down to the soil along with the majority of the fairways that where widened.  The obvious reason for doing this is to create more T-space(we need a lot more) and regain our fairway contours that will shrink overtime.  This was completed in conjunction with the aerifying because we can punch these areas and promote a faster recovery with the new germinating seed.  Here are some pics of the T's scalped.

Here is a great picture of the scalping in place along with the aerifying just being completed.  Gives you an idea of how much T-space we are getting back.  This process was completed on all T's where possible.

 We are continuing to improve our lady T-complexes as well.  We had time to re-build the the 13th (1) tree that was in need of some attention.  Along with the a brand-new rebuild we also completed a new walk-path to this T.

New Re-build with Fresh walking path.

The pictures below show new walk-paths that were installed at the request of our lady golfers.

#2 walk-off - #3T

#12 Ladies T

 What we are currently working on:
Our main items right now are native cleanup and re-seed, tree work, and application of hydro-mulch to rough areas.

With water being at the top of our priority list(at all times!) we are continuing to seek ways to install native and eliminate turf to not only save on water but to enhance our aesthetics at the same time.  Here are a few pics of areas that will be accomplishing this.

Here's an area to the left of number 11 we are converting to bed and were able to eliminate 4 irrigation heads.  Probably save us at least 75,000 gallons of water on annual basis.  We will be planting 3 new red-woods in the void area.

 

You can see the area around number 14T that will become native.  These areas area an excellent opportunity to bring in our surrounding native landscape and create some definition for the course.

Tree work:
For those of you that are not familiar with our outside contracted tree service it starts in the first week of October and continues through the end of November.  Our budget allows 40K for this service. In the future we are looking to double this budget due to the increasing death of monterey pines and the need for more removal to open some areas up. Some noticeable trees that have been taken down this year were the big pines on #11 and the willow tree on the corner of #8.  I have had a lot of people ask if we are going to replant anything on number 8 and the answer is yes.  I visited the tree farm yesterday and hand selected a larger valley oak that will be planted within the next few weeks.  Moving forward we will continue to try and provide consistency with our trees on property.  Meaning make space for what's important, our heritage oaks and beautiful red-woods while eliminating species that don't belong in our natural setting.


Projects we will be working on this winter:

Once we finish all native cleanup and re-seeding we will shift our focus to some bunker and T projects.
We will be looking to complete the bunkers on #2 and #15 that have not been completed yet.  The only thing that would hold us back from this project is being able to obtain the bunker floor material, "sta-lock."  The other project will be to re-build the #10 ladies T.  This T is way to small and we will be looking to enlarge the current T to create more T-space and give the ladies a more friendly T-shot.  Once these projects are completed we will be looking to possibly start some bunkers on #17.











 

Irrigation

Recently this summer I have had a lot of questions about watering practices and how it impacts playability.  I thought it would be smart to write some facts down to give our membership a little more info on how we water and what equipment is used.

IRRIGATING EQUIPMENT

To start, we our in great shape from the stance of our current irrigation system including everything from piping, electrical, sprinklers and a central computer operating system.  In 1999 a new complete Rainbird Irrigation system was installed at the club.  The most important factor with this system besides new piping and electrical is that it enabled us to have "single head control".  Prior to the 90's they had what was called a "block system" meaning that when you turned on one station(sprinkler), three or four irrigation heads would come on at one time.  This block system made things very difficult because you could have a hot and wet spot right beside one another and not be able to adjust the percentage of water accordingly.  Currently with single head control I can adjust the percentage of water for every single rotary head on the course, meaning if I have a dry spot I can turn that head up and a wet area, turn one down.

This is an example of what a case and rotary look like.  You only see the top part of this.

In 1999 our irrigation system included 1,571 of the heads pictured above.  Those 1,571 heads can be split into 2 categories.  One is what we call a 700 series.  The 700 series is a rotary that waters a full circle or 360 degrees.  The other type is called a 751 series and this head generally will only water a half circle or 180 degrees.  Of those 1,571 heads 1,039 of them where 700  series and 501 where 751's.  The main difference besides coverage of turf is water usage.  Both of the heads put of roughly 25 gallons of water/minute.  That's right, 25 gal/minute.  The main difference is that the 751 on nightly basis only puts out half as much water because it's irrigating half as much turf.

Example: On a summer evening we run about 8mins of water.
So that translates to a 700 running 8mins @ 25gallons/min. = 200 gallons of water for (1 head)
A 751 only needs 4 min because it's watering half as much. A 751 will put out 100 gallons for 1 head.
 This info is important because the more heads that we can convert from a 700 to 751 the more savings we will inherent.  So this gives you a basic idea of what is in the ground out here on the course.  Please remember that I can individually adjust all of those heads because of single head control.  The base line in our irrigation computer is 100 percent, so if I have hot spot I can adjust that head to water 150 percent.  The same thing can be done for a wet spot,  I might have the percentage at 50 percent.  My three section leaders(all 30++ years experience) along with my assistant and I are touring the course on a daily basis looking for heads to adjust.  I have to say that after three years of constant adjusting we have the heads pretty much dialed in.

 The next question would be how do we come up with the amount of water to put out on the course on a daily basis. I use a few different components to determine the amount of water to put out or run.  Let me start by saying that our goal is to only supply the plant with enough water to make it through the day so that in return we provide the finest playing surface possible. The first component we use is our weather station.  You can can spot our weather station to the left of the 1st fairway. 

This is what our weather station looks like.  It's located to the left of number 1 fairway.

 This weather station monitors on a daily basis the maximum and minimum temperatures, wind speed, relative humidity, rainfall, and solar radiation.  It's main function is using a calculation with the factors mentioned above to determine the evapotranspiration rate or E.T. Evapotranspiration (ET) is a term used to describe the sum of evaporation and plant transpiration from the Earth's land surface to atmosphere. Evaporation accounts for the movement of water to the air from sources such as the soil, canopy interception, and water bodies.

So with the weather station calculating the E.T. it will come up with it's recommendation for nightly irrigating.  The number of minutes to water is the amount of irrigation to replenish the plant to make it through the day.  The weather station is just one tool we use to determine the amount of water to run. Some other factors include daily observation of  turf health, how does the turf look, probing the soil to check soil moisture, and the 10day weather forecast. All of these and more factors determine the amount of irrigation to run.  We will ALWAYS error on the side of being a little dry knowing that it provides a better playing surface unless we are experiencing a severe heat wave.

TURF SPECIES AND ACREAGE
It's funny because with all of the increases in water  I have had more comments in the last month about the course being over watered than I've had in 5 years.  Before we converted to rye grass we did at times have unplayable wet conditions because of Poa Annua's shallow rooting and susceptibility to heat.  There's not much you could do in order to keep the Poa alive but over water it.  Fortunately our conversion to rye has allowed us to provide more acceptable playing conditions.  The great thing with rye is that it will recover from heat stress where Poa will just die and leave a void in the turf.  This allows us to run things a lot drier and not worry about loosing massive areas of turf not to mention save on irrigation.

In 2007 we were irrigating 100 acres of turf here at Palo Alto.  Currently we are irrigating 80 acres of turf thanks to our implementation of native areas and straw beds.  That's a big difference.  We have been able to turn off 103 irrigation heads(700's and 751's) because of the native areas.  The straw beds added another 53 heads that we could turn off and both areas combined allowed us to convert approximately 150+ heads from a 700 to a 751.  Looking at those numbers you can see that we have saved some serious water.  To give a idea in 2007 the club was billed by the city of Palo Alto for 80,119,776 gallons of water.  In 2009 after the full conversion and installment of native and straw beds the club was billed for 51,574,600 gallons.  That a difference of almost 30,000,000 gallons.

MOVING FORWARD     
First, I would like to say that I could talk about water all day long.  The information  above is just a starting point.  What I hope you received from this blog is a basic understanding of some key components involved in irrigation, changes we have made to conserve water and to know that irrigation is at the top of our list when it comes to priority.  We are doing everything possible to provide the best playing possible while using the least amount of water.  Moving forward we will continue to explore all pathways to find conservation with water.  Please feel free to stop me on the course or come by the office to talk more about water. 

Black Turfgrass Ataenius Grubs Found

Within the last week I have discovered a new pest on our golf course.  It's unfortunate in with the way that we have suffered some turf damage from this pest but also positive in the sense that I now know it's an issue and will be able to prevent any damage in the years  to come.  Here is a picture of  the little bugger.

Black Turfgrasss Ataenius Grub

It's hard to believe that this little grub could cause so much damage.  This grub affects the turf plant by feeding on  it's root system.  This was a major key to me when I inspected the turf, because it's roots are not in tact you can basically peel the turf right off the soil.  This along with the fact that a lot of the damage is from the crows and robins pecking away at the turf in search of a meal.  Here are some photos that I took this afternoon of the damage caused by this little grub.  Keep in mind it's about the size of a grain of rice.

#4 Fairway Grub Damage.

#10 Fairway Damage.

To the untrained eye this might look like a typical Hot Spot.  With a little help from the birds it led me to investigate further and determine the main cause.  I really feel the damage was more severe because of this past weekends 100 degree temps.  Keep  in mind that this grub eats the roots of the plant and add in 100 plus temps and we're asking for trouble( the plant can't survive without a root system). Upon confirming our grub problem we made a fairway insecticide application today to put this grub in check.  I am hopeful that the application was not to late in the year and we will be able to stop the damage from occuring.  Now that I know this pest is a problem on our property I will be able to plan accordingly in the years to come to ensure that this will not happen again.  Below is a life cycle for this pest and you can see that in April is when it's in the egg stage.  This is when an insecticide will provide a 100 percent control.

Next year we will be making our insecticide application in mid April to target the eggs before they reach the pupa stage and cause damage to our turfs roots.  Once one application is made it can have a residual for up to three years eliminating any grub activity.  This is just one case of the multiple things that are uncontrollable on a golf course.